Q&A WITH SUMAYYA JAMIL OF MY TAMARIND KITCHEN

It’s always an absolute pleasure to meet people who are truly passionate about their work, especially if foreign food & culture are involved. And after discovering that Sumayya had also grown up surrounded by the Pink Diamond Salt used in our Himalaya chocolate bar, I couldn’t wait to find out more about the wonderful world of My Tamarind Kitchen…

Biryani

Please tell us more about your delicious cooking.
My mission is to highlight my heritage Pakistani cuisine. I grew up in Pakistan and I knew my food to be nothing but Pakistani. Moving to the UK has made me realize that my cuisine is often confused with other South Asian ones, some of our dishes are labeled as such and no one knows the history, tradition and cooking styles that make up the Muslim heritage cuisine that Pakistani food is based on. My hope is that through my writing and cookery classes, people will soon appreciate and taste the individuality of my cuisine.

You once told me that you used to be sick of the sight of pink diamond salt back home. Was it really everywhere?

I remember seeing these pink glowing lamps with tiny tea-lights within them twinkling by the dozens at open air weekend bazaars, in shopping malls and by the roadside. I never once gave them a second thought, though I always knew of their origin. Knowing that Himalayan Pink Salt is mined in Khewra Salt Mines (the second largest salt mine in the world), in Punjab, Pakistan – this salt is mined only on the Pakistani side of the Himalayas and shipped across the world. I don’t believe I ever bought a lamp, but now I wish I had. When I first realized that Himalayan salt was so trendy in the UK, I was proud to know it was mined from my country and that it’s properties are very beneficial to us and much better than regular salt for consumption. The lamps themselves provide mood lighting and the pink glow is meant to give you an overall sense of well-being. It is said the miners that work at Khewra are happy and calm, much to the contrary of others such as coal miners!

Pink diamond salt lamps

And is pink diamond salt used in many traditional Pakistani deserts?
I’ve been cooking all my life in Pakistan and I have never used the pink variety in food however we do use Kala Namak, or black salt in our savoury spicy snacks, in different masala blends such as Chaat masala, this adds a piquant, umami flavour and is used as a flavour enhancer. I have to say it doesn’t smell pleasant with its rather sulphuric aroma and unpleasant smell, it’s tastes better than it smells! Kala Namak is a hard black salt mined from the Himalayas as well, from the North West of Pakistan. I wouldn’t be inclined to use this in sweet dishes or chocolates, however Pink salt lends itself better for use in such sweet items instead. I intend to develop a few Pakistani inspired recipes using Himalayan pink diamond salt soon! (NB Sumayya has since told me she’s discovered that Pink salt is widely used for cooking in Northern Pakistan)

What flavours & dishes define Pakistani food for you?
To me, Pakistan food is defined by smoky meat barbeque aromas, fragrance of saffron, mint, coriander, star anise, all infused in rice, vegetables and breads. Seafood from the coast of the Arabian sea, Indus river and the freshness of seasonal vegetables and fruit. For example, Pakistani Sindhri mangoes are one of the best in the world as well as pink guavas and pomegranates and other lesser-known fruit such as Kinos (large oranges), Falsa (Grewia asiatica berries) Cheeko (Sapodilla) and Sharifa (custard apples.), are fantastic. To me all this defines Pakistani warmth, fresh produce and it’s haunting cuisine.

Kaghan Valley

I’m not sure if many people in the UK realise what a stunning country Pakistan is. What is your favourite place & why?
Pakistan topographically is a disparately beautiful land, with high snow capped mountain ranges such as the Himalayas and Karakorum (home to the K2); to the plains and plateaus of the arid dry desserts of Sindh and the fertile agricultural lands of Punjab. North Pakistan is known to be a green beauty with valleys and hilly land and many different races and ethnic people inhabiting these areas. My country boasts a rugged beauty that many don’t know about and sadly tourism has been stunted in the recent years due to political and security related issues. However, I am a firm believer that the land itself cannot be blamed for this, and one must celebrate the untouched purity my country has to offer and do our best to promote what we can positively. It is indeed a country worth being experienced.

It’s hard for me to choose one favorite place in Pakistan. I have three. One is in the North, Lake Saif-uk-Maluk in the Kaghan Valley, which is a glacial lake. The story goes that a famous Pakistani poet wrote about how a fairy called Saif-ul-Maluk fell in love with a Persian prince at the lake. The beauty of the lake is reflection of the mountains against the lake and people in Kaghan Valley believe that the fairies descend at a full moon by the lake. I also love Lahore, especially the Badshahi mosque, which is a celebration of the architectural genius of the Mughals, and is the real food capital of the country. However to me the seaside of the Arabian sea in Karachi with it’s balmy waters and silver sands will always hold the most special place in my heart and will remain home to me.

Badshahi

I love to learn more about the cultures of different countries. Are there any Pakistani books, music, film or art you would recommend?
Pakistani art, music, photography, film and fashion are at their greatest height, we are progressive yet stay close to traditions and ethnic beauty. Some of my favorite artists are Farhan Manto who creates atmospheric sketches of horses, Jamil Naqsh who is known for his oil depictions of birds and Gulgee (now deceased) a contemporary artist who was world renowned with his rather crazed colourful oil based splashes. Music in Pakistan is well developed and my favorite pop musicians are the now broken up group, Junoon, also Atif Aslam; while more folk style would be the Sufi singer Abida Parveen. Some of our fiction writers have won and been nominated for many international prizes such as Mohsin Hamid for a Reluctant Fundamentalist was shortlisted for the Man Booker Prize (now a movie staring Kiefer Sutherland and Kate Hudson), Mohammad Hanif’s A Case of Exploding Mangoes was shortlisted for the Guardian First Book and Kamila Shamsie’s Burnt Shadows was shortlisted for the Orange Prize for Fiction. Some of my favorite photographers and fashion designers are Tapu Javeri and Rizwan Beyg respectively. Pakistan has so much to offer, it’s really quite hard to do it any justice in one paragraph!

Bhuta

How will you be spending Ramadan?
Ramadan is a quiet contemplative time for me. I usually spend it being thankful for what I have, feeding those who cannot afford much and remembering and celebrating where food comes from. I don’t fast as often as I wish but I try to incorporate the key principles of the month such as these into my life and try to be respectful of people who do fast. Ramadan ends with the festival of Eid, where celebratory foods are prepared and shared with family and friends. It’s a time of rejoicing the end of a month of abstinence and purity of mind and body.

Finally, what exciting projects are coming next?
A lot more teaching, spreading the flavours of Pakistani cuisine, demystifying the spices we use and the cooking methods. Creating an understanding of our recipes and making people comfortable with cooking by estimation. I intend to write a lot more about Pakistan, Muslim heritage cooking and my culture for many more publications. Also I am writing a memoir-based cookbook inspired by the cooking I grew up learning in Pakistan and my happy safe memories from my childhood in Pakistan.

• Sumayya Jamil teaches Pakistani cookery classes in London and across the UK and is also a freelance food writer specialising in Pakistani and Muslim heritage cuisine and culture. For more recipes and cookery class details please see http://www.mytamarindkitchen.com

BLACK PEPPER

Black Pepper

Black Pepper is possibly my most favourite of spices & I will never miss an opportunity to add some of this distinctive heat & seasoning to any food. Hence, it was only natural that we should also throw in a little of bit this wonderful spice to our Indian milk chocolate bar.

For as long as spices have been traded, Black Pepper has always been the most highly prized. Demand was once so high that the spice was even referred to as ‘black gold’.

Black Pepper originates from the wonderful Western Ghats in South Western India, which is an expanse of lush green rainforest up in the mountains of Kerala. The pepper grows as berries on vines attached to trees. The berries are then picked before they ripen then left to ferment & dry – a process which turns the berries hard & dark in colour. I was lucky enough to see the spice grow here myself & taste it on some delicious local chicken dishes.

Vasco de Gama & the Portuguese were the first modern European nation to capitalise on the demand for black pepper in the West around the start of the 15th century, just before the Mughals began to take control of India. After numerous battles & political stalemates with the natives, Portugal became the main exporter of Black Pepper back to Europe – breaking the Islamic monopoly on the region’s spice trade whilst establishing their own extensive colonies along the west coast of India. And their influence is still strong there today, especially in places such as Goa & Cochin, where de Gama eventually died.

As control of the spice routes changed hands, Black Pepper began to appear in other parts of the world, including China, Sumatra, Vietnam & Indonesia. This expansion has in turn led to the emergence of all kinds of varieties of Black Pepper. There’s a Penang Black Pepper, which has a bold flavour, a Sarawak Pepper, which is known for it’s unique, winey taste and a Lampong Pepper which has a smoky tone, amongst others. And that’s without mentioning White, Green & Pink Peppers….& here’s a more recent piece focusing on Sichuan Pepper.

PIERRE POIVRE

PIERRE POIVRECountries worked very hard to prevent spices from leaving the native islands they controlled. The Molucca Islands in Indonesia were a particular example, being the only place in the world which grew mace, nutmeg & cloves. Frank Czarra (Spices:A Global History, 2009) talks about the Dutch covering their nutmeg crop with lime to prevent reseeding & setting clove groves on fire to avoid new plants being grown.

However in the late 18th century, the brilliantly named Pierre Poivre (Peter Pepper) finally succeeded in stealing vital seeds from under the Dutch’s noses. Poivre had spent time travelling the world as a French missionary and was instrumental in his nation winning the vital port of Pondicherry in India. More significantly to this tale, he was also keen botanist.

Poivre had attempted unsuccessfully to grow nutmeg & cloves on French soil, but while being stationed as political official in Mauritius, he developed a tropical garden & then returned to the Moluccas on a successful seed smuggling mission. Within thirty years, the French were successfully growing cloves in Madagascar, Zanzibar & Pemba, followed by the British in the Carribbean & the Portuguese in Brazil.

Poivre eventually returned to his native Lyon & died in 1786. However, his legacy lives on through the Botanical gardens of Pamplemousse in Mauritius (inspired by a local grapefruit tree) where he first grew his cloves, the island Poivre Atoll, which was dedicated to him in the Seychelles & his book ‘Voyages of a Philosopher’, which was read with interest by Thomas Jefferson. Many people believe he was also the inspiration for the wonderful old British tongue-twister….

Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.
A peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked.
If Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers,
Where’s the peck of pickled peppers that Peter Piper picked?

CLOVES

clovesCloves are one of a number of exciting spices which feature in our fragrant Masala Chai chocolate bar. Along with nutmeg & mace, cloves are native to the Moluccas or ‘Spice Islands’, a volcanic archipelago in Indonesia. However, the spice is also now grown across the Indian subcontinent and in parts of West Africa. The cloves themselves are actually flower buds which are picked from the tall evergreen clove trees & then dried in the sun. The name clove is derived from the Latin word clavus, meaning nail, which the buds resemble.

Cloves & the Spice Islands became central to the huge Eastern Spice Trade as far back as Roman times. However, as European spice demand grew around the 16th century, the Spanish, Dutch, British & French were all involved in bitter conflicts in an attempt to weaken the dominant Portuguese control of the area. But towards the end of the 18th century, power began to shift when a Frenchman, called Pierre Poivre, managed to smuggle seeds & plants from the islands and began to develop their own spices. The subsequent growth of cloves in Mauritius by the French was one of many new plantations that eventually led to the end of the monopoly & the price of spices falling significantly.

In terms of flavour, cloves have a wonderfully strong medicinal & fruity flavour & are used in both sweet & savoury dishes. North Africa & the Middle East often use cloves in rice & meat dishes, such as Moroccan Tagines. These strong flavours also led to scented clove oranges being a very popular insect repellant in bygone centuries. In it’s native Indonesia, cloves are blended with tobacco to create the popular ‘kretek’ cigarette. While in China & Asia, cloves are widely used in both medicine & spice blends, such as Chinese Five Spice or the wonderful Indian Masala Chai….