We were delighted to chat to Fuschia Dunlop – an expert in Chinese gastronomy – on the flavours of Sichuan…..
What is the one flavour which epitomises Sichuan for you?
If we’re talking individual seasonings, then Sichuan pepper. If we are talking flavour profiles, then ‘fish-fragrant flavour’, a combination of pickled chillies, ginger, garlic, spring onion, sugar and vinegar.
What makes this flavour special?
Sichuan pepper is a sensation combined with a flavour: the flavour is citrussy, the sensation a lip-tinglng feeling that the Chinese call ma (the word also means ‘pins-and-needles’ and ‘anaesthaesia’)
In which dish / dishes does this flavour appear?
You find the ma tingliness in classic dishes such as mapo tofu and Chongqing hotpot (left).
Does the flavour bring back any special memories?
Actually it brings back bad memories of my first trip to Chongqing, when I didn’t know what Sichuan pepper was, and found it shocking an unpalatable! They do use it in fairly excessive quantities in Chongqing – not the best place for a first experience!
Is this flavour common throughout the country?
No – that’s what makes it so distinctively Sichuanese. (Although it is now used in Sichuan restaurants all over the country.)
Is this flavour native to Sichuan? If not, how did it become popular?
Yes, it’s an ancient, native spice – the original Chinese pepper. Black/white pepper is known in Chinese as ‘barbarian pepper’ because it was a later, foreign import.
Why do you think this flavour is so important to Sichuan?
It’s very stimulating, which suits the sluggish, humid Sichuan climate.
Do you think this flavour reflects the people or the country in any way?
Sichuanese people are famously lively and they call young women there ‘spice girls’ (la mei zi), so yes!
Is this flavour connected to any particular traditions?
An ancient symbol of fertility, it is traditionally thrown over bride and groom at weddings in some rural areas.
Finally, what’s the strangest flavour you’ve come across in Sichuan?
Perhaps ‘strange flavour’ (!), guai wei, a mix of sweet, sour, salty, tingly, spicy and umami tastes. But overall, the ma of Sichuan pepper is certainly the most unusual.
Fuchsia’s latest book is called ‘Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking‘ (Bloomsbury 2012)
Website: www.fuchsiadunlop.com
Twitter: @fuchsiadunlop
Instagram: fuchsiadunlop
Photograph of Fuchsia by Colin Bell