BERBERS & BEGHRIRS (MOROCCAN PANCAKES)

MOROCCAN BEGHRIRBeghrir is a traditional style of pancake which originates from the Berbers, an indigenous ethnic group from North Africa. It’s a popular breakfast meal & daytime snack & often served with a honey-butter mixture, although they also taste wonderful with chocolate!

The Berbers have been around North Africa for thousands of years & are mentioned as far back as end of the Roman Empire. Nowadays, there are around 25 million people speaking Berber in the region, mainly in Morocco & Algeria. The Berber people are also associated with more rural environments, such as the nomadic Tuaregs who travel the Northern Sahara desert.

Ancient Berber culture is rich & diverse, notably their music & dance. Berber music is especially interesting & it’s styles range from Celtic – with bagpipes & oboes – to Chinese influences, all of which are combined with African rhythms. Probably the most famous Berber music comes from the Master Musicians of Jajouka, a large all-male collective who originate from the Rif Mountains, near Tangiers. They were named as such by beat writers Paul Bowles & William Burroughs during the 50’s, while Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones produced one of their albums in 1967. Their sound is wonderfully trippy & derives from Sufi trance music, which is over 1000 years old. To learn more, check out this excellent article from the Quietus

Now back to those delicious pancakes…..& to make them four decent-sized Beghrirs, you’ll need:

1/2 teacup of fine grain semolina
1/2 teacup of white flour
1/2 teacup of luke warm water
1/2 teacup of milk
1/2 teaspoon of dried yeast
1 teaspoon of baking powder
1 medium egg
A pinch of salt & sugar

1. Simply add all the ingredients in to a bowl, whisk thoroughly & leave for around thirty minutes.
2. Then add a little butter to large, medium-heat frying pan, pour in a quarter of the mixture & almost cook as you would a normal pancake…..the difference being that you don’t flip them. By not flipping, you’ll see a lovely holed texture develop on the top.

Just keep an eye on the base of the Beghrir & once the top appears dry & cooked, then serve. Bon appetite!

CARDAMOM

Green CardamomCardamom has an interesting past going back thousands of years, as the spice travelled across many great civilisations & countries. India has traditionally used the spice for medicinal purposes in the form of Aruveyda, as well as now being a key flavouring in Garam Masala spice mix & delicious Masala Chai Tea. The ancient Egyptians used to whiten teeth & the ancient Greeks & Romans used it to aid digestion & as a perfume & breath freshener. Many Arab cultures also add Cardamom to coffee, while the spice is also at the heart of various Scandanavian breads such as Pulla & Julekaka, after the Vikings visited Constantinople.

Cardamom is also a valuable spice which hails from Kerala in India, alongside Black Pepper & Ginger. It comes from a tall, thin plant in the form of tiny pods, which contain the fragrant seeds. There are two main types of Cardamom – green & black. Green Cardamom has a woody & slightly citrus flavour, while Black Cardamom has a cooler, smokier flavour. And since the Cardamom plant requires the same hot & wet climatic conditions as Cocoa, maybe Chocolate & Cardamom were always meant to be together. I find that Cardamom combines especially well with sweet creamy white chocolate, so here’s a simple recipe for a White Chocolate Mousse which will serve around 5-6. I say, 5-6 because I find that a small amount of this rich desert is ample. This desert is also excellent at cleansing the palate after some spicy food!

Cardamom White Chocolate  Mousse1. Crush around 20 green cardamom pods & put the seeds to one side.
2. Slowly melt 200g of white chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water & add the cardamom seeds. You can also add milk if you want to stretch the ingredients further.
3. Add four medium egg whites into a bowl & whisk until stiff.
4. Gently fold the egg whites into the white chocolate mix until everything is perfectly blended.
5. Place in small containers or glasses & leave in the fridge overnight. The longer you leave them, the better the texture & the more infused the spice. Enjoy!

THE MARRAKECH EXPRESS

The Marrakech Express, which runs from Tangiers to Morocco‘s cultural capital, became a popular hippie route during the 1960’s, as young westerners began to crave the experiences of more exotic locations. However, it was Graham Nash of Manchester band The Hollies, who gave the city greater prominence after writing about his journey onboard the train in 1966. The song became a big hit for Nash’s next group, Crosby Stills & Nash in 1969, after he’d quit Northern England for the sunnier climes of California. It’s a brilliantly catchy track which catches the spirit of 60’s Morocco, with Nash beautifully recalling the colours, sights & sounds of his journey.

Paul & Talitha Getty Tangiers, to the North, had already gained notoriety by becoming a hotspot for the beat generation, so it was no surprise that the wonders of Marrakesh would eventually attract attention from the western pop scene. By the late 1960’s, Marrakech had become the hip place for London’s hoi polloi, as Yves St Laurent, The Beatles & the notably the Rolling Stones amongst others all swarmed to the city. Keith Richards once said of Morocco – ‘We enjoyed being transported……you could be Sinbad Sailor, One Thousand and One Nights. We loved it’. Yves St Laurent also developed a real love for the city, buying a house & the stunning Majorelle gardens here – these blue parks later becoming the home to his ashes. However, it was John Paul Getty and his wife Talitha who were at the very heart of the circle & this iconic photograph by Patrick Litchfield on their roof, overlooking Marrakesh & the Atlas Mountains, perfectly summarised this glamourous scene.

THE INDIAN WHITE TIGER

White TigerI’ve just finished The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga, which is an interesting & funny read. It’s the story of Balram Halwal, a poor village boy from the Delhi area, who becomes the driver to ‘The Mongoose’ & his rich family. Balram has a very humorous & insightful perspective on modern Indian society & invites you to India from the eyes of a local. He talks about the craziness of his country, the corruption, the 34,000 gods…..& he does it with large dose of Indian humour.

We actually spent time with a driver like Balram, when we were graciously given several nights in a posh hotel in Mumbai at the end of our last trip. He was a smart & amiable chap who took us on a fascinating tour of his city, but he also spoke openly about the problems facing India. Just like Balram, he told us about the hardships he faced – he spends four hours commuting every day to & from his tiny flat on the outskirts of Mumbai & uses his two weeks’ holiday on his annual trip to see his wife & kids in Kerala. His story made my heart sink. It was one of those moments which made me think how lucky & free we are in the West. And freedom is a theme which runs throughout The White Tiger. I’d always wondered how an Indian would be willing to swap the wonderful, warm paradise of Kerala for a much colder & greyer life in the UK, but now it made sense. However, White Tiger also reminded me again what a beautiful & fascinating country India is & I can’t wait to return & meet Balram again.

White Tiger